Spoilme issue 01
41°N · 12°E
Section 04 · Stays

Ten rooms worth flying for.

We only recommend rooms we've slept in. Below: ten hotels, from a plaster-and-lemon suite above Ravello to a wooden cabin in Norway where you can hear the fjord think. Written for the couple that reads the room before the reviews.

Rooms Ten stays
Priced Deep end & middle
Selected for Two people, one bag each
Written by A former guest
Hotel terrace overlooking the sea
Ravello · Italy

Palazzo Avino

A 12th-century palazzo above the Amalfi coast. The Belvedere terrace at breakfast is the whole point; the room service can be anything you like once you've had it. Book the Belvedere Suite for anniversaries; a Junior for anything else.

Sea view suitesMichelin diningAdults-only pool
Riad courtyard with tiled fountain and orange trees
Marrakech · Morocco

Riad El Fenn

A ten-riad compound wound around three swimming pools and a rooftop that catches every evening. Nine bedroom styles, all of them designed by Vanessa Branson. Book Souk Suite for its balcony over the medina; Chleuh for the deepest bath in the city.

Three poolsRooftop dinnersInside the medina walls
Wooden cabin at the edge of a Nordic forest
Lofoten · Norway

Hattvika Lodge

Fishermen's rorbuer converted honestly — wooden floors, red exterior, a very warm bed and a mountain in every window. Book Havbua for the private hot tub over the water. The kitchen at the lodge is worth two dinners.

Waterfront cabinsSaunaAurora, sometimes
Villa deck facing a Bali rice paddy
Ubud · Bali

Bambu Indah

Antique Javanese houses reset in a river valley outside Ubud. Ask for the Copper House — a spiral-glass tower rising out of the jungle — or the Riverbend house if you'd rather hear water than birds. Breakfast is served river-side and takes as long as it takes.

Antique housesNatural poolsFarm-to-table
Boutique hotel suite in warm wood tones
Kyoto · Japan

Aman Kyoto

A hidden garden a taxi ride north of the tourist grid. Twenty-six pavilions, one onsen, and a stillness that most Kyoto hotels aim for and miss. Book the Deluxe Room in Pavilion 3 for the view of the moss walk.

Private onsenKaiseki nightsFree of Gion
Classic hotel bedroom with linen headboard
Paris · France

Le Pavillon de la Reine

Behind an ivy-covered arch on Place des Vosges. Not the ninth arrondissement, not the marble palaces near the Ritz — a small manor with a private garden, a wood fire in winter, and the best breakfast pastry in the Marais.

Marais locationPrivate courtyardUnder 50 rooms
Infinity pool at the edge of a cliff
Cap Ferrat · France

Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

The one with the pool that hovers over the Med. Old-money quiet, new-money crisp. Take the sea-front Junior Suite, not the Presidential — the smaller rooms have the better light. Do lunch at Le Cap, and go swimming before it.

Sea-cliff poolFunicularSpa Four Seasons
Breakfast tray with coffee and pastries
Lisbon · Portugal

Santa Clara 1728

Six rooms in a Manuel Aires Mateus renovation of an 18th-century townhouse. Whitewashed limestone, oak floors, one very good breakfast served communally. The kind of hotel where you accidentally make friends with the couple across the table.

Six roomsAlfamaCommunal breakfast
Small wooden hotel in the Icelandic peninsula
Snæfellsnes · Iceland

Hotel Búdir

A black church, a black beach, a small hotel with a very good kitchen. The rooms are simple; the view isn't. Book at least two nights so you can sit through one full round of Icelandic weather without missing everything.

Peninsula baseFiresideAurora catches
Beachfront bungalow at sunrise
Holbox · Mexico

Casa Nalum

Ten palapa suites at the quiet end of the beach. No televisions, plenty of hammocks, a very good kitchen that will feed you ceviche whenever you like. Ask for Suite 3 — the one closest to the water — and leave the golf cart parked.

Ten palapasBarefootNo TV

How we choose

A hotel makes the list if the room is quiet, the bed is right, the bathroom has a real door, and at least one meal on the property is genuinely worth staying in for. We do not accept comped stays, and we don't recommend rooms we haven't slept in ourselves.

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